Rome - Days 4 and 5

Rome – Days 4-5

Day 4

Day 4 started with a pretty relaxed morning.  Everyone (except Dad – who needed to write his blog) slept in until around 10:30.  I think the jetlag is still wearing off, slowly.  We walked over to the Vatican to get a ticket for the open, double-decker bus that drives around Rome.  Its hokey, but looked fun.

 

Double Decker Open Bus

Just as we boarded, there was an ominous thunder clap off in the distance.  Tree commented that it might rain, while I assured her that the storm is nowhere near us and we were fine.  Of course, just as the bus arrived at Trevi Fountain, the thunder sounded again and we began to feel a few drops f rain.  Within minutes, the rain and thunder picked up to the point that the kids had to cover their ears – it was as though we were inside of the thunderhead -- and we sought shelter in a nearby restaurant, Pizza Cosi, which was recommended by the man who sold us umbrellas. 

Waiting out the storm 

Fortunately the storm passed as we ate our lunch – the house specialty, which is pizza and penne (served with red wine, of course).   It was time to head off to the recommendation of our friend Steve Burton – the Crypt of the Capuchin Monks. 

Entrance to Capuchin Crypt/Church

As background, the Capuchin Monks are a sect of about 4000 men who have devoted themselves to complete poverty, and to serve those people who are the absolute neediest in the world.  When you walk in, there is a large map of the world showing where the members of their Order are stationed , and how many are stationed there.  They operate in places like El Salvador, Haiti, Angola – basically all impoverished countries.  Oh yeah, and Mississippi. 

But what draws tourists to them is the crypt below their “world headquarters,” aka the Capuchin Church of the Immaculate Conception.  In the 1600s, when the monks moved to to their new HQ from their old one (near Trevi Fountain), they brought the bones of their deceased brethren.  Due to limited burial space, the bones where left in the basement of the new HQ, while newly dead friars were buried nearby.  As they ran out of burial space, they would exhume the longest-deceased friar and use his burial spot for a newly dead friar.  The bones were added to the pile, until eventually a fleeing artist who took refuge in the monastery decided to organize them...    The kids loved it, but the person we thought of here was our cousin Nancy, who has a store in LA that specializes in bones, skeletons and all things macabre.    She would have been in heaven!

One of the burial scenes

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We realized that we were near the Borghese Gardens, so we decided to wander thru.  Right at the entrance, there was a vendor renting 6 person bikes that you could pedal around the gardens, rather than walk.  It looked fun, so we grabbed one.  Dad, Billy and Danny did most of the peddling, while Mom, Lilly and Tommy rode along.  Jimmy got a seat in the basket up front – a fun - if slightly scary – perspective. 

 

About to depart on our bike ride through the Boregese Gardens

Passenger View...

Tom and Jim (reacting to the ride ending) take an Italian bumper car ride...

Today was mostly a day of recuperation – people were worn out – yet we still managed to exhaust ourselves.  We grabbed the Open Bus and headed back home where we grabbed dinner and gelato near the apartment. 

 

Enjoying gelato after dinner

Day 5

When we toured the Vatican earlier this week, we did not have time to go up into the Cupola atop St. Peters Basilica.  The lines were too long, plus the kids were shot after the museums.  So we added that to our “make up” list.  One other idea suggested by Kate, our tour guide, was to come to an early mass before the Basilica got crowded.  So today, we woke early to do both.

 

Morning in Vatican City

Rome is pretty quiet on a Saturday at 7:30 a.m., and the Vatican was no different.  The crowds had not arrived yet, so we breezed in and bought our tickets to walk to the top of the Basilica.  Kate’s advice was spot on – I think people would rate this adventure as our best so far.  Though the climb is tough – 1000 steps – and it tests those who don’t like heights or tight spaces (or both), but the view from the dome is spectacular.   And on the walk up, you are able to get close to the mosaics that adorn the Basilica.  Kate taught us that the mosaics used to be paintings, but the paintings were not surviving the wear and tear.  So the Vatican removed the paintings and commissioned its master artists to render the paintings in identical mosaic form.  With most of that work done, the Vatican has only 7 remaining master mosaics (mosicians?), and they work with 10,000 shades of tile to replicate the artwork.

Pausing for a photo mid-way up to the cupola

View of the altar from the 1/2 way point (inside the cupola)

Up close view of the mosaics.  Artists use 10,000 shades of tile.

Lilly did not like the heights, and almost didnt make it.

Final stair case to top of the cupola

View of St. Peters Square from top of cupola

Lilly (and Dad) would not leave the safety of the walls to venture out for a view...

Residences and Vatican Museum.  The closest building (towards the bottom left corner) is the Sistine Chapel

Reluctantly, Lilly and Dad leaned out for a quick snap shot

Stairs down...

We had to hustle down from the cupola to make it to 8:30 mass in the Basilica.  Fortunately the stairs dump out right next to where the mass is held.  As we walked across the basilica to the chapel where mass is held, we saw about a dozen Vatican alter boys rehearsing for a larger mass later in the day.  Being an alter boy at the Vatican must be like being a ball boy at a Nationals game (or at the French Open).  I guess you need to know someone important.

 Characteristically, we were late and caused a disturbance as we walked in.  Despite it being held in Italian, the kids were great during the mass.  True to form, Jimmy brought his Legos, which kept him occupied during the brief mass.  When it was time for communion, Dad mistakenly held his hands out for the host – as is the norm in America --  and the Italian priest – who was about 80 and as traditional as they come – gave me a disapproving look.   I hope he didn’t see me sneak into the back of the grotto to snap a photo of everyone at Mass. 

By the time Mass ended, the crowds had saturated St. Peter’s Square.  What was a 20 person line at 7:30 had become a 2000 person line by 9:30.  Its hard to see in the photo, but the line stretches from the  left side to the right side of the square.

We hopped the Open Bus to head over to the Spanish Steps, where all of the luxe stores are – Ferragammo, Gucci, A. Testoni, Max Mara, Bulgari, Cartier.  With summer over, they are having end of season sales and shoes/bags/clothes are half off.  Imagine being able to pick up a Ferragammo back for only $1500!   Dad resisted all pleadings to shop, and managed to get away having only spent 10 euros on a fake Gucci belt from a street vendor.

We headed back for a homemade lunch, and some down time.  Lilly had been talking about renting a Vespa to ride around Rome, and it sounded like a fun idea that did not require any more walking.  We ate, and then Lilly and Dad headed down to the rental place, which was on our street. 

With Dad driving, Lilly was the first to get a ride on the Vespa.  Quickly, we found ourselves back on the  street with the high end stores.  Feeling bad about vetoing the shopping earlier, Dad had the bright idea of surprising Mom with a pair of shoes that she had been admiring.  We didn’t quite know which ones she liked the most, but we figured she could return them if they were not to her liking.  Word to the wise – Italy has “law” that does not allow any returns for any reason (especially for American tourists).  Only exchanges for equal/greater value are allowed.  When Dad and Lilly showed up with the wrong shoes – wrong brand, wrong color, wrong style -- it set Mom and Dad on a two our adventure that resulted in Mom getting a bag and Dad ending up with a $400 fedora (on sale for a cool $200).  Don’t be surprised if you see me wearing it A LOT.  Need to get my money’s worth.

Lilly and Dad back from shopping

When Mom and Dad got home, we grabbed dinner and then headed out for more Vespa rides.  For the next 3 hours Dad took everyone on nighttime tours of the Vatican, the Coliseum, Circus Maximus, the Tomb of the Unknowns and the dangerous (but fun) streets of Rome.  Our time in Rome coming to an end, we crashed in preparation for our morning train to Venice.

Late night vespa rides with Jim went until 11:30 pm

Bonus blog – final reflections on Rome.

Rome was awesome.  We highly recommend it – and the DeConti apartment – to any and all friends.  I’ll leave you with a few parting thoughts…

Internet Cafes – Remember back when the internet first came out –before it was ubiquitous --  and you had to go to a specific location that marketed itself as an internet café?  Well, Rome still has them.  Not sure if they just lingered on, or whether its still hard to get internet there, but I liked the trip back in time.

Fanta Orange – Did you, like me, think that the Fanta brand was largely dead?  Well, it lives on and thrives in Rome.  The three main colas are Coke, Diet Coke and Fanta Orange, which tastes a lot like Orangina (which, ironically, is harder to find).

Gonzaga Purple – Before I got my fedora, I was wearing around a Gonzaga H.S. hat that proudly proclaims “Est. 1821.”  I am sure the Roman’s chuckled at that… To them, 1821 is downright modern.  (In fact, Chris and Elif’s oldest daughter goes to the same school that Galileo attended.  In 1580.)

Swiss Guard – Since 1575, the Pope has been protected by the elite Swiss Guard.  Wielding parachute pants that harken back 1983, and sporting a sword but no gun, the Guard looks more like court jester than soldier.  Nevertheless, I have to say that I kinda envy their outfit. 

Crab races at the Vatican – This might only make sense to those who have seen the wooden crab race “course” at the Miles River 4^th of July Picnic…  To control traffic flow, St. Peter’s Basilica is divided in half by two short (3 ft) wooden walls running about 500 feet through the center aisle.  As we passed the wall, apparently it triggered Jimmy’s memory, and he informed us that on Easter Day, 2013, he and his best friend Andrew took a flight to Rome to participate in crab races in the blocked off area.  When Jimmy’s crab – St. Peter -- won the race,  Andrew crushed and killed it.  Jimmy exacted revenge by crushing Andrews  crab.

The crab races are held between these two barricades.  The course is about 800 feet.

 Italian Hospitality – I’m genuinely grateful to everyone here for making our stay easy.  We arrived speaking 0 words of Italian, but we made it through.  Imagine being at your restaurant in Washington, and every guest speaks to you in their – not your – language.  It would try ones patience, but the Italian’s handle it well.  (Maybe because it’s the only growth industry going there…)